Medicina y masculinidad: el cuidado de la barba en los recetarios domésticos castellanos del siglo XVI / [Medicine and masculinity: beard care in 16th century Castilian domestic recipe books]

En la Europa bajomedieval y durante la primera Edad Moderna, en paralelo al desarrollo de profesiones sanitarias como la cirugía y la barbería, emergen nuevos géneros de literatura médica en lenguas vernáculas pensados para un uso doméstico. Una parte sig-nificativa de estos textos estaba dedicada al cuidado de la apariencia estética, una esfera de intervención en el cuerpo humano tradicionalmente vinculada a las mujeres. Sin embargo, en este trabajo mostramos cómo los recetarios domésticos también incluyeron tratamientos destinados a los hombres, concretamente para la conservación y embellecimiento de la barba. Con ello, señalamos la importancia de estos textos para documentar prácticas de construc-ción de la identidad masculina a través de la imagen corporal. En este trabajo se analizan los tratamientos propuestos para el cuidado de la barba en dos recetarios castellanos del siglo XVI, el Vergel de señores y el Regalo de la vida humana, específicamente para su limpieza y teñido, así como para la prevención de la alopecia. Se estudian los procedimientos técnicos y las sustancias utilizadas para la confección de los productos finales, así como los consejos y advertencias para su aplicación correcta y efectiva. El estudio contextualizado de las recetas en sus testimonios manuscritos permite documentar la contribución de las tradiciones médicas domésticas a la construcción de la masculinidad. (AU)

Cosméticos radioactivos. La belleza «radiante» / Radioactive Cosmetics and Radiant Beauty

No disponible

Nombrar los cosméticos: los orígenes y consolidación de la nomenclatura cosmética internacional / Naming cosmetics: origins and consolidation of the international nomenclature of cosmetics

Este trabajo estudia el desarrollo y consolidación de la terminología cosmética internacional en los EEUU y en Europa, considerando, especialmente, el periodo comprendido 1938 y 1996. El potente sector cosmético estadounidense desarrolló diferentes esfuerzos para estandarizar sus productos que culminaron, en 1973, con la publicación del Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary y de una nomenclatura específica denominada inicialmente CTFA Adopted Names y, desde 1993, International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). En Europa, el proceso de estandarización terminológica fue más tardío e implicó la coexistencia de diferentes estándares, así como la adopción final de las normas INCI de cara a los consumidores que consolidó un mercado cosmético internacional

This work studies the development and consolidation of an international terminology of cosmetics in both the United States and Europe, considering, mainly, the period between 1938 and 1996. The powerful cosmetic sector of the US made several efforts to standardize its products resulting in the publication of the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary in 1973, with a specific nomenclature initially called CTFA Adopted Names, and, since 1993, International Nomenclature of Cosmetic ingredients (INCI). In Europe, the terminology standardization process took longer, involving the coexistence of different standards, as well as the final adoption of INCI terminology for consumers, which consolidated an international cosmetic market

Trotula de Ruggiero: The Magistra mulier sapiens and her medical dermatology treatises.

Trotula de Ruggiero is supposed to be one of the first female physician of the history, or at least the first who practiced, taught, and wrote medical texts inside the illustrious medieval Medical School of Salerno around the XI-XII centuries. Here we retrace the steps of her fascinating history from historical cues to legendary anecdotes, through the analysis of the medical texts which were ascribed to her in the Middle Ages and that were very popular around Europe for several centuries, prevalently dealing with all the aspects of women's medical problems, with a focus on dermatology, cosmetic science, and obstetrics/gynecology.

Histoire du thermalísme à Avène-les-Bains et genèse de l'eau thermale d'Avène: History of thermalism at Avène-les-Bains and genesis of the Avène thermal spring water.

Avene thermal spring water is recognized for more than two centuries for its benefits on skin diseases. Since 1975, the Pierre Fabre Group has modernized the facilities, and developed the brand « Eau Thermal Avène ¼, allowing more than 2,500 patients/year to be treated by this therapeutic water. The regulation requires high standards on origin, bacteriological purity and physico-chemical stability. Many works have allowed us to understand its origin, its underground path and identify its specific physico-chemical profile. Finally, thanks to its therapeutic properties verified in various clinical studies, the « Eau Thermal Avène ¼ is the first active ingredient of a variety of products for sensitive skin.

Historia y actualidad de productos para la piel, cosméticos y fragancias. Especialmente los derivados de las plantas / History and present of skin care products, cosmetics and fragrances. Especially those derived from plants

Objetivo: aportar notas históricas sobre el empleo de los recursos vegetales en la elaboración de productos para el cuidado de la piel y recoger hechos científicos que nos definen la actualidad del tema. Método: búsqueda bibliográfica a través de las bases de datos: Scopus, WOS, Google Scholar y The Plant List y otras web botánicas. Resultados y discusión: el cuidado de la piel y la cosmética forman parte de nuestra vida diaria, de ahí que el uso de preparados para este fin haya aumentado significativamente en los últimos años. A partir de una bibliografía reciente, citamos 78 taxa botánicos (algas, helechos y plantas con semilla, hongos incluidos) relacionados con hechos históricos y conocimientos científicos actuales. Conclusión: Los derivados de los vegetales se consideran seguros para la salud, suponen una gran fuente de metabolitos secundarios y han sido y son materia prima para la elaboración de productos que cuidan la piel

Objective: To provide historical information about the use of vegetal resources in the elaboration of skin care products and to show some scientific facts that define topicality of this subject. Method: bibliographic search through the databases: Scopus, WOS, Google Scholar, The Plant List and other botanicals webs. Results and discussion: skin care and cosmetics are part of our daily life; hence the use of products for this purpose has significantly increased in recent years. From a recent bibliography, we referred 78 botanical taxa (algae, ferns and seed plants, fungi including). The aforementioned we related to historical facts and current scientific knowledge. Conclusion: Derived from plants are considered safe for health; they are a great source of secondary metabolites and have been and are raw material for skin care manufactured products

Cosmetic Medicine: Innovative Beauty Care as Popular Medicine in Days Gone By.

Throughout the ages, people yearned for beauty and longevity. This article examines how European physicians began to engage with the field of cosmetics over a century ago, thus introducing the category of aesthetics into medical practice. This historical phenomenon is currently repeating itself.

Doctors and baldness: a five thousand year old challenge.

The history of trichology follows a thread that continually intersects with that of the history of medicine in general. Even Hippocrates believed that the approach to baldness should be of a medical nature. This confrontation between doctors and hair loss, which has lasted for five thousand years, begins with the invocations of the head physicians in the Egyptian era and ends with the recent institution of postgraduate Master's degrees at Faculties of Medicine and Surgery. The biggest names in medicine concerned themselves with trichology beginning with Hippocrates, who dealt with the topic in his most famous work: the Aphorisms. Even the most celebrated doctors of the Roman era, such as Galen and Pliny the Elder, did not disdain considering hair loss, leaving important scientific contributions before passing on the baton to their distinguished colleagues of the Byzantine Empire. The narrative then flows through the most prestigious institutions of the Middle Ages, such as the Salerno School of Medicine and the Siena Accademia del Fisiocritici where, at the end of the 1600s, the distinguished anatomical describer Marcello Malpighi also taught trichology, and left his contribution to "Hair Science" with a fine description of the hair follicle in the pages of his Opera Posthuma. At the turn of the late Middle Ages and the early modern era, barbers formed the primordial nucleus of surgery and at the same time became the ones to concern themselves with hair loss. In the 1800s, several doctors published the first texts dealing with the anatomy and physiology of the hair and taking into account the principal forms of alopecia, but at the therapeutic level did not yet propose anything scientifically valid. Until a few decades ago trichology still lent itself to various commercial speculations. It was not until the twentieth century that the pathogenetic mechanisms of baldness were clarified in a scientific manner. With this knowledge, the pharmaceutical industry has been able, then, to develop the necessary drugs, and doctors have become willing and able to reappropriate treatments to counteract conditions that lead to hair loss.

[Cosmetic innovations in the Guerlain patents deposited in the XIXth century]. / L'innovation en cosmétique au travers des brevets déposés au XIXe siècle par Guerlain.

The XIXth century was the century of the development of hygiene, cosmetics industry, chemistry and modern pharmacy. After the French revolution, a new legislation establishes a law of recognition of the property of the inventors on their inventions. This paper describes the content of patents and certificates deposited in the XIXth century at the INPI, french national institute of the industrial property, by the creators of Guerlain, a luxury brand of perfumes and cosmetics. This paper allows to discover the variety of the inventions which recovers whitening lotion, soaps, ingenious devices and new perfume substances.

Recipes for Men: Manufacturing Makeup and the Politics of Production in 1910s China.

In the first decade of Republican China (1911-49), masculinity was explored in writings on how to manufacture makeup that appeared in women's magazines. Male authors and editors of these writings--some of whom were connoisseurs of technology, some of whom were would-be manufacturers--appropriated the tropes of the domestic and feminine to elevate hands-on work and explore industry and manufacturing as legitimate masculine pursuits. Tapping into time-honored discourses of virtuous productivity in the inner chambers and employing practices of appropriating the woman's voice to promote unorthodox sentiment, these recipes "feminized" production to valorize a new masculine agenda, which included chemistry and manufacturing, for building a new China.

Red, White and Black: Colors of Beauty, Tints of Health and Cosmetic Materials in Early Modern English Art Writing.

Alongside Richard Haydocke's translation of Giovanni Paolo Lomazzo's treatise on painting (1598), the article examines concepts of color concerning cosmetics, painting and complexion as they relate to aesthetics, artistic and medical practice in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Beginning with white and red as ideal colors of beauty in Agnolo Firenzuola's Discourse on the beauty of women (1541), the essay places color in relation to major issues in art, medicine and empiricism by discussing beauty as a quality of humoral theory and its colors as visual results of physiological processes. Challenging the relation of art and nature, gender and production, Lomazzo's account of complexion and Haydocke's additions on cosmetic practices and face-painting provide key passages that shed light on the relation of cosmetics colors, art writing and artistic practices at the convergence of the body, art and medicine in the context of the emerging English virtuosi around 1600.